Rats Castle 2016 Apr

Rats Castle. April 2016

Unfortunately the wide-angle lens has flattened things out a bit. This shot is taken over 300ms above the lake.
In a long-gone era, when orderliness and reason were supreme values, mountains – with their jumbly chaos, their “hideous” height and irregular form – were so hated and feared that they were regarded as part of an angry God’s judgement on a sinful earth. Others argued that such undigested heaps of confusion could not come from a God of order and beauty, but from some other chaos. These jumble haters would have sure hated Rats Castle!

Preferring to invoke Norse mythology than these myopic understandings of God, when in a landscape such as that provided by this citadel for rats, I picture Thor in his fury, smashing stones like marbles in his wrath, tossing slabs of rock about the place in a wild mess.

From Rats Castle, near the summit

I thought of this image as Angela and I spent the best part of an hour negotiating the upper part of the ridgeline that leads to Rats Castle. We had adhered to the instructions in the book and forum, following an old fence, then climbing to the top, and finally following the ridge south to the summit. The junky rocks were exactly as those commentators on reason had depicted in their rather jaded, moralistic accounts. As we tiptoed through the field of discarded, ossified footballs, we had time for such musings. It took a little less than an hour to gain most of the height we’d needed, but another hour to traverse the mess, weaving in and out and around about, dextrously avoiding scoparia and other obstacles of a more jagged nature.

Summit view from Rats Castle
Three things saved the area, I decided, as we sat on top enjoying a leisurely … whatever the meal is called when it’s not lunchtime yet but you’re hungry, so eat your lunch ’cause you’re on top anyway:
(1) an amazingly blue lake (Great Lake) below, with patterns of mirror and ruffle on the shimmer (hardly the “blue scrofulous scum” as the mountain-hating Charles Cotton called a lake in 1681. It seems he was not keenly alive to the beauty of lakes either);
(2) tiny shapes we could recognise way in the distance: the Acropolis and Geryon to the west; Ben Lomond to the east, with Arthur and Saddleback rising out of localised clouds even further afield;
(3) the knowledge that we should make the most of this view, as the chances were highly unlikely that we would ever be back this way again. It wasn’t horrid or anything: it just lacked any “wow” factor that lifts the spirits, and life is short. On the smorgasbord of mountains, when I’m choosing second and third helpings, other treats will be more on my mind.
Sitting up there, chewing our cud, we could see no good reason at all for the oddly-shpaed route we had been advised to take, so opted for a direct descent and take whatever consequences came. The only one that did was a descent that was half an hour quicker than the inward journey. Angela, knowing what a rebel I am in every other way, asked what had ever possessed me to adhere to instructions on this occasion. I had no adequate answer for that unprecedented and unwarranted conservatism that had momentarily taken over.
Conservative ascent, following advice (top); creative descent, going for it (bottom / south).

Hyperion 2016 Mar

Mt Hyperion March Long Weekend 2016

What is it about a mountain like Hyperion that demands our respect and makes it impossible for us to take it for granted? Sometimes it’s the shape, sharp and steep, where no easy way seems possible from afar. Other times, it may be the stories we are told of it, or warnings we are given. I had received plenty of these with regard to Hyperion: “Don’t do that one solo, Louise”; “Don’t climb it in mist. You want to be able to clearly see the dangerous drop-offs”; “It’s very airy up there”; “Hm. You and Angela are very short, I’m not sure you can do it. Maybe if you help each other you can”. Some people give a slight (very reassuring for me, the listener) shudder when they recall the exposure. I was certainly not going to take this one lightly.

It is now cool enough for fungi. Yippee. 

If you want to see quaint, tasteful bridges like this in the Lake St Clair area, you’d better hurry. Pukes and Wildspite are ripping them out and replacing them with monsters made of synthetic material, a metre or more wide and giant handrails, of course, because if we fell into the water we might get our tootsies wet and sue them. I weep for the loss of the rustic, picturesque and natural. They are even thinking of replacing darling Pine Valley Hut with something bigger – perhaps something as utterly unsuitable, chilling and unwelcoming as the Bert Nichols Hut. Who knows? If they think it will get more tourist dollars, that’s what they’ll do.

I set out a little in awe of what might be my fate on this mountain of the stories and warnings, and rather anxious. Rock chutes, and reaches that are challenging do not scare me, but the possibility of toppling to my death from a ledge in a moment of carelessness does, and not just because of the recent accident of Feder. Ledges bother me. Could I summit this mountain? I don’t usually doubt my ability to get to the top, but with Hyperion, I was unsure, AND I certainly did not welcome the last-minute change in the weather forecast that now promised us rain and mist every day of our possible attempt.

En route. I have dubbed these “Geryon Base Camp Falls”

The first day was so wet and gloomy that we, a group from NWWC plus the Fairfaxes, stopped short at Pine Valley Hut, thus allowing us to keep our tents dry (and lighter) for a bit longer before the climb. Any excuse to spend time in this valley is a good one, and Bruce (my husband, still with us at this stage) and I enjoyed wandering and photographing in the light drizzle of the afternoon.

Russula sp coloured the forest

Next day, we climbed in mist and rain, up through glorious forest and onto the Du Cane Range, ultimately descending to Lake Helios for our campsite, pitching our tents shortly after 3pm. We all expressed astonishment and pleasure while we set up camp at the brief appearance of the sun. Our leader, Greg, announced that if we were to make a summit attempt, as soon as our tents were up was probably the best moment, as we did not know what the morrow would bring. This was a great call. The next day, we now know in hindsight, would not have been suitable.

Climbing to our base camp at Lake Helios.

The group gains height on the Du Cane Range

The beautiful Lake Helios, perched under Hyperion, our goal.

I didn’t find any particular moment of the climb itself (the manoeuvres involved) to be scary. What concerned me was the weather, which closed in and fogged us up so that good routes up the next stage were harder to sight. I feared the unknown that lay ahead, and I was anxious about the time, as it was getting later than I liked should we have trouble getting back down. I think we all probably harboured our own little anxieties as we forged on upwards, hoping it would work.

The final stage lies ahead. We can get there.
Six happy summiters. The group minus me. I was too cold, and in too much of a hurry, to use auto timer and find a rock to balance my camera on.

When anticipating summitting Hyperion, I always thought I would be joyous and whoop with delight when I reached the top. In fact, all I did was heave a sigh of relief, grab a few photos in the icy wind, and clear out of there, back down to safety. Tempered joy would come later. Relief is still the dominant emotion.

Clouds await us below.
An aspect of the ascent that interested me was that I was hit by (another) falling rock, this time on the thumb. I have always thought that if this happened, I would lift my hand in pain, lose my grip and possibly fall from my position. I am delighted to report that the worst that happened was pain and that I did not let go. This is quite a comforting thing to know. I had to keep moving so the pain didn’t overwhelm me, and the others understood. Movement took my thoughts away from my thumb onto things I could control, like making the next climbing step. I was fine for now.
Sunrise next day. I hope you like this shot. I had nearly as much hand pain taking this as I had from the falling rock. Temperatures were sub-zero while I took this tripod long exposure with no gloves on.
The next morning, it was so cold we had to wipe sheets of ice from the tents. Rocks were slippery. Climbing Hyperion would have been treacherous.

We exited through the Labyrinth, making an attractive circuit, and descended to my husband, who had climbed the Acropolis while we were away.

Mt Ossa and Pelion East from the northern end of the lake shortly after dawn.

Rogoona 2016 Mar

At last, after nearly 1 1/2 hours walking, I sight my goal

Mt Rogoona. A day walk.
Yesterday afternoon I was double checking my list of Abels so I could post it for people who want to use it (it is here in my blog – “Abels: alphabetical” – when I discovered that five Abels were missing, one of which I hadn’t climbed. As my count works backwards rather than forwards, this meant that I had climbed one less Abel than I thought I had. I either had to subtract one from my number (terrible), or go climb an Abel today to turn myself into an honest woman. Luckily my work commitments for the day had been cancelled, so I chose the latter ploy, of course.

And better still, after 2 1/2 hours I get a view from the summit area (actual summit is still three knobs away)

I opted for Mt Rogoona, hoping I had enough time to fit it in. The story in Wildtiger has more hours to climb than I had available. I was also hoping to undercut the time mentioned in The Abels, but I was gambling on my route working, as I decided not to use any of the suggestions on offer in web or book, but devise my own. This freedom to choose one’s own route is part of what I love about bushwalking. I didn’t really care if my route was not the best way (as long as I got back to the car in time to get me home for dinner): it was my way, and I like exercising my independence and autonomy – as well as freedom and creativity. To me, following someone else’s purple line on a garmin screen is a denial of many aspects of walking that I love. Walking is about so much more than bagging a summit.

Rocks plus water really do it for me

And so I drove through the charred landscape of black and fallen trees due to the January fires, until I reached the end of the road beside Lake Rowallan. Despite the burned debris, the old track to Chalice Lake could be made out with concentration until it crossed a bridge (after 12 mins from the car). From here, I could see no trace of a track, and I was not going to Chalice, so set off up Jacksons Creek, keeping as near to the water as possible until the creek forked.

Weee, there is Geryon (and the Acropolis (et al).

At this stage, I let the terrain decide my route. I feared getting trapped in a waterfall if I took the very steep left fork, and didn’t know if waterfalls were also on the right one, so decided to climb the cliffs up the middle. This worked fine, although I did have misgivings about finding a suitable passage on the rebound. That was a problem for later. I got up the steep section, bullied a little by the thick scrub in one part, but then made my way south east until I intersected with the track between Lakes Bill and Myrtle. From here it was only a bit over a km to the lake (Myrtle).

The book talks about following a track between this lake and the next (Lake Meston), but it was going away from my mountain, and I could see no possible reason for such a deviation, so just went straight up. I had reached the summit cairn in 2 hrs 50. It was cold and windy up there, so I opted for lunch down by the lake, and after the obligatory series of photos, headed back down, choosing a route even more direct than my way up had been, arriving at the point where you cross the creek at the end of the lake in 57 minutes from the summit cairn. Now it was time to eat, although I didn’t spend too long doing that, as I was unsure about how descending through the cliffs was going to be.

Farewell lovely mountain. I’ll be back to spend the night with you one day. This was just a recce.

As I was departing, I noticed a little pad continuing around the lake on the opposite shore. I decided to follow it, reasoning that, as it was going westish, I could use it as long as I wanted, and then head north, or else, if it swung north where I wanted it to, I could use it the whole way. I like “circuits” (or whatever you call this), so happily followed it, noting that someone had cut branches quite recently. All this zone at the top, you will be pleased to note, was untouched by the fires, which affected the steeper areas down lower. I figured the pad would be pretty impossible to follow once I hit the charcoal, but funnily enough, you could still sometimes see marks on the ground, or old sawn bits of timber, and occasionally even tapes – not melted ones. Someone has been out and put nice new ones there. Thank you, whoever you are. I got “dumped” by the tapes lower down, but I knew where I wanted to go, so just went there, rejoining my original route in at the bridge. The route down, summit to car, took 2 hours 20. I liked my circuit, so much quicker than other routes I’d read about.

The black scenery from the fires was both depressing and sickening at first, but as I walked through it, I was filled with wonder, for the bush is already on the move: nature is fighting back. Even myrtles have new leaves, as well as the eucalypts (of course). Tree ferns were flourishing, as were ground ferns and bracken. Of course it won’t be the same as it was, but the tree ferns looked fabulous in their bright green crowns, and it was great to see that the bush could begin to recover. Lots of trees I used to pull myself upwards had some give in them. They’ll grow green too with a bit more rain. My face was predictably black by the end. Wild Woman hit Mole Creek for afternoon tea, but the cafe had closed at 3pm. Who eats afternoon tea before 3? Bitterly disappointed, and dreaming of the hot chocolate with cream and cake I’d been denied, I drove the rest of the way home.

My route
Caveat: it surely goes without saying, that this route is only for people experienced in navigation and in forging their way through untracked bush. If you are not confident in these matters, then there are tracks you can use. They are longer, but perfectly adequate.

Othrys 2016 Mar

Mt Othrys Mar 2016

Leeawuleena spread out before us
Mt Othrys has one of my favourite summits. Leeawuleena (Isn’t that the prettiest name imaginable? It is the Aboriginal moniker for what white people labelled Lake St Clair, and means Sleeping Water) sparkles below, and the broken dolerite pillars jut and thrust their way in odd but attractive directions, making for a jagged and interesting framing of the scene and a dragon-spine skyline.


Blue and green should always be seen

I could have spent an hour up there, or more, but will have to do that next time. On this occasion, we were in a hurry. Angela had been on call, so we could only begin our exploits at 11 a.m., and she needed us to keep to the book’s estimated 7 hours for the climb. That sounds like plenty of time for a 25 km equivalent exercise, and it was – just – but only by keeping up a pretty smart pace throughout the day, and allocating a mere 25 minutes for lunch and photographs at the top, for, you see, this beauty is rather inhospitable to visitors, and the mountain has grown a rather nasty patch of protection to prevent all but the most handsome of princes from entering. We are neither handsome nor princes, but did manage to find a way through. Othrys has a bad reputation amongst bush gossipers, and for quite a good reason.

We lost a bit of time on the way there trying to find the track amongst the button grass plains, but as we figured this was faster than making our own way, persisted in searching for it. We left the pad at a rock with a cairn on top, which fell a bit short of my intended point where the summit-to-path projected line intersected perpendicularly with the path. To put us back on the route I wanted, we headed for a waypoint I had made on this imaginary line, and found an excellent route through the melaleuca scrub hugging the creek at this point. Our route through the forest for at least half the journey was also relatively easy, much better than reputation has it. However, in the upper reaches we struck a band of young, dense melaleucas that left me exhausted by the time they’d finished their sport with me, but we did win through, and from that point, headed straight up rocks for the summit, which was reached without much difficulty.


Different view of Olympus

On the descent, we were able to stay on the rocky nose for longer, it now being visible from above, and had a trip down that was an hour faster than the ascent of four hours.


Summit dragon spine

Unfortunately I cannot give you my normal jpeg version of the screen image of our route, as about 200ms from the top I checked the gps to see how we were going, and undid “screen lock” and then bumped something (I know not what), with the result that my machine stopped recording, not only for the route up, but also refused to cooperate on the way down. It wouldn’t even show me my gps position. This morning it seems in better health, so I have no idea what I did, but there is no track for the remainder of our climb, or for our good descent route, alas.

Should this interest you: The mountain offers a fascinating angle on Mt Olympus and the shapely Mt Ida is directly opposite. In the distance lie many other mountain friends from this much-loved region, while directly below to the other side, the Cuvier Valley spreads out for display, with Lake Petrarch adding more blue sparkle to the scene. Particularly interesting for Angela and me, as we had climbed there only a week before, was a new perspective on Hugel and Little Hugel, with the Cheyne Range clearly visible behind. So many loved places visible at once; it was grand.

Geikie 2016 Mar

Getting near sunset at our camp spot, day 1

Mt Geikie at last.
If you would like a little shot of adrenalin, then borrow someone who’s had Parkinson’s Disease for fourteen years, and take him up Mt Geikie alone on a misty day on which the way is a point at the end of a compass needle and the route, an uncertain traipse through small and large cliffs and patches of scrub. The mist was so thick at times that the mountain was not even a dark shape in the gloom. It just wasn’t there. And if you’d like a bigger dose, then take said gent through the thick band of tanglefoot (Nothofagus gunnii) and scoparia that runs from The Bastion, due west.

Sunset approaches. The light was eerie – and beautiful

The watery sunset arrives (long exposure)
Last time I attempted to take my husband up this mountain, we got as far as The Bastion, but in the thick mist and with darkness rapidly approaching, I pulled the plug. We had already exceeded my predetermined turnaround time, and I could see no ready way of getting down to the saddle that lay between where we were and our goal. There was no time to search, and certainly no time to try and fail. The mist was ominously dark. I do not regret what I still see as a wise move that day (you can read about it on:
http://natureloverswalks.blogspot.com.au/2014/11/mt-tyndall-and-bastion-89th-nov-2014.html), but Geikie still remained, so here we were, having another go … on a similar day, but with more time up our sleeves to play with. Although we set out after breakfast, I packed my head torch, so pessimistic was I after last time. Don’t be fooled by my photos: they were taken in brief interludes of visibility. The theme for the day was thick mist.

 Day 2. Off we set across a water filled landscape to our goal
Rocks and tarns: what a great combination

As we had all day to do this, I took us on a scenic Tour des Lacs, ever working our way south. It was glorious. However, even with this stalling tactic, we eventually neared The Bastion – the blockade from last time. I decided to be super-smart and outwit this recalcitrant mountain, and not go near the “summit” that had turned us around, but save my husband a climb by traversing directly to the saddle on contour. Smart, eh? Trouble is, the map doesn’t tell you that the band of green oozing out of The Bastion to the west is a very nasty brand of dark green. It is also lavishly replete with boulders about four metres high with vertical walls and no cracks to get a hold. I lost count of the number of culs-de-sac we landed in. Each time, we had to back out and try again elsewhere, yet elsewhere presented us with an impenetrable wall of bush or more rock. By climbing on top of scoparia bushes – wondering if they would snap and dump us two or three metres below in a pile of prickles and tangles from which we could not be extricated – or doing likewise over the tanglefoot (both treacherously slippery when wet), we managed to inch our way southwards. I was stunned that Bruce managed to keep progressing. I was trying to choose a Bruceable route, but there was not much on offer.

 

Here a tarn, there a tarn, everywhere a tarn, tarn
When we finally burst out into ground you could walk on, it was a moment of great joy. The actual climb of the mountain was a snack and quickly dispensed with. It took my husband only twenty minutes up, thirteen down to do the bit we’d come for, once he could begin.
Out into the clear, hooray
And we even get to see our mountain for a second or two before she runs away and hides again

If you assume you’re going to bag a summit with no problems, there is only moderate joy in the dubious accomplishment. You have invested only a little emotional energy in the exercise. Taking Bruce to Geikie, however, nothing was taken for granted, and so we both felt elation sitting up there under that trig. Bruce had done the unexpected (I had thought he’d choose to read a book at camp while I summitted solo), and we were alive to the momentous nature of what he had just done.

Once on top, the clouds did part for long enough for us to get a partial glimpse of our surroundings.

Our best view. We found it quite exciting

On the return, we did not opt to save contours, but headed straight for The Bastion, skirting only the initial rampart by hugging (literally) the cliffs to the east, eventually going up a chute to the top. I enjoyed this route, but Bruce found it tested his vertigo. This was 45 minutes faster than the outward journey! The rest was Sound of Music walking over glorious alpine gardens, decorated with pink rocky stripes and more fabulous tarns. It had been a day of great (landscape) drama and subtle beauty. As we sat back in camp eating our lunch, the sun came out. We leant back and basked in its warmth, in no hurry to pack up and leave.

Me on The Bastion on the way back, taking a peak over the edge at the cliffs we’d been hugging

I made sure the trip back was filled with water too 🙂

We had approached the Tyndalls via the north (Burnie), so I decided to leave via the south, so drove to Queenstown, and then east along the beautiful Lyell Highway to Derwent Bridge, waving hello to my many mountain friends as I went. I have on many occasions spoken about delicious meals had here at the end of expeditions. It was time to let Bruce have this fun too. He was not disappointed. Sated and satisfied, I had to blast us both with opera and sing at the top of my voice the whole way home to prevent falling asleep at the wheel. I am dangerous on a full stomach.

Maps will be added by Thursday