East Coast 2017 i Feb

Tasmania’s East Coast: a place of healing. Feb 2017

My brother-in-law, Ken, is on the phone, wanting to speak to Bruce. I ask, to clarify, “Where are you expecting us to be?”
“Aahh, Intensive care.”
I feel a little guilty, because we are at the beach. My husband was let out of the ICU yesterday afternoon. I think I should justify my actions – my apparent recklessness and irresponsibility – so I begin: ” Do you know how, in books set in the eighteen- and nineteen-hundreds, patients with lung problems were sent to the coast for fresh sea air?”
Surely this casts my action in a good light.
“Yeees.”


“Well, Bruce was released from the ICU and hospital late yesterday, so I packed our bags and drove us down here today. I felt a great need to be by the ocean.”
I nervously await his response. Judgement … or approval?
He was delighted. His voice was soft and warm, the vowels drawn out as he took in what I had said.
“Wow. I really can’t think of a nicer place to be to recover after you’ve been in hospital. He’ll get better there, for sure. Can you see the sea from where you are?”
“Yep, and we’re about to have a short walk along the sand and maybe even a paddle if the water’s warm enough.” (It was).


And thus my husband begins his convalescence. And, as Ken is a lawyer, I guess I’m not going to be sued for lack of appropriate care of my charge. It was a glorious day on which to be alive, and to celebrate life to the sound of crashing waves, the feel of white sand under bare feet, the smell of salt in the air, the sight of deep blue, and the sense of joie de vivre that being on the beach brings.


That evening, I was shooting long-exposure sunsets on a little beach, and quite an audience amassed. They were all very interested in what was on my screen at the end of each shot, and, as this is inherently interesting, I didn’t question their gathering, although the number was rather surprising. I reasoned that it was a beautiful evenening, but that, there not being much else on, watching an image flash on a screen every couple of minutes was about as good as it got. When I left, one of these admirers asked me if this was, indeed, the beach where all the penguins landed. Ohhh. Let down. They were there for penguins, and I just happened to be the avant-spectacle entertainment. I needed to get Bruce out of the night air, so wished them good luck and left.


Next morning, I arose a good hour before dawn to get into position in the dark for my normal at-the-beach pre-dawn shoot, where I love to take very long exposure shots in the dark. Having the sensor exposed for several minutes enables it to capture the burgeoning light that it can register, but the eye cannot yet quite see. I had forgotten all about the penguins. I stood there, a rock, immobile for my shoot. While I was waiting for the first light of dawn, they began to waddle past, some about five centimetres from my bare toes, unaware that I was an animate object. This experience of being part of their environment was far more special than the dawn colours I captured (especially as I am having problems with my overly skinny tripod at present). Penguins observed from a cheap fake-wood stage strutting on grass and lit by false lighting just do nothing for me, but penguins nearly treading on my toes in the dark, creatures of nature together as they traverse the sand on their way to the sea, that does it for me completely. The magic of that morning will remain with me for the rest of my life.

My garden 2016 Early spring

Several of my instagram followers have expressed a wish to see some of my garden photos from this season, so, to all you lovers of mountains and wilderness, please accept my apology for this intrusion into the normal theme.

I have several friends who only want flowers to occur in the bush (or presumably up a mountain), in their natural state. I admit that a cultivated garden is, in that it is ordered, selected and arranged, “unnatural”, although it uses the products of nature. More to the point, for me, a garden is a creative outlet (like my photography): it is my playing with nature. I love to sieve the soil with my fingers (I never wear gloves), getting my hands, knees and face filthy while I am at it. I am thrilled that little Gussy has planting, and caring for what is planted, as a regular part of his preschool curriculum. I love the photos that arrive home of all the children with their fingers covered in pure, dirty earth. (Melbourne University Early Learning Centre – fabulous place).

Famous Czech playwright, Karel Čapek, wrote that we must give more to the soil than we take from it. This is, surely, a life principle, not just a gardening one; children who are taught to care for plants learn this valuable lesson early.

Universities like to have lovely gardens on campus. What does a garden have to do with learning? The answer was already intuited by the ancient Greek philosophers, the Italian garden academies of the renaissance and the wonderful gardens of the English colleges. Plato’s Academy in Athens had a garden that allowed him to withdraw from the polis and its attitudes and seek repose. Robert Pogue Harrison argues that a garden stands as a kind of haven, if not heaven, “a counterforce to history’s deleterious drives”. In a garden, you can withdraw from the masses and think. In that aspect, wilderness is a giant garden, albeit one that we have not had to care for in the same way that we care for a home garden.

Gardens are frustrating: they need constant care – weeding, digging, mulching, mattocking, watering, improving the soil, worrying over sick plants, despairing over the rampaging growth of others. As Capek points out, gardeners do not garden because they believe in work, or because it is a form of fitness training, or even out of a commitment to beauty per se; gardeners garden because they are committed to the future welfare of the thing being tended. I garden because I want my almond tree to grow better, my roses to have more flowers, my daffodils to be healthier and more numerous. I am always looking forward to the next year when my trees will be even bigger, my flowers even more beautiful than this year. A gardener is always looking forward to a grand future.

Gardening is the antithesis of consumerism, for the latter devours but fails to give back. Gardening teaches us to give as well as take, with our eyes on the future. If every human cared deeply about the state of the earth in the decades to come, our planet would be a much happier place to live in, as people would act with more responsibility and thought. Capitalism devours without a glance at the state the world is being left in for the next generation.

Gardening also teaches children (and adults) to care “outwards” for something other than the self. On the way home from preschool recently, I saw an Iris bulb lying on the road beside the path. Gussy and I were holding hands, but we let go so I could rescue this Iris, and stick it back in the soil of its bed. I made a depression with my fingers and stuck it in while he (hilariously) explained to me that it was there because of gorilla gardening (aged four). Magpies had come along and pulled it out. Together, we made sure this bulb was happily placed back in the earth before we continued our journey. A child who has learned at preschool and at home to care for plants (and pets) is, I sincerely hope, on the path to a life of seeing the self in relationship to others, both those living now and those who will be born later.

One of the favourite sentences I have heard from Gussy is when he stood on our verandah and said: “Don’t you just love the way the light shines through the leaves, making patterns everywhere? I love it here.” I think Capek would have liked to have met him. Pity they are separated by nearly a century in time.

Food list for ten-day hike

You don’t have to worry about food going off eating al fresco here, and the view is awesome, if perhaps an acquired taste. Here is my husband enjoying his cooked breakfast.
Food list for a ten-day hike.

People have been asking me what I take on long expeditions, and it is, of course, an interesting question. There are huge individual differences in taste and portions to consider. I like my food, eat a lot for my size, and like variety. I think it’s important to have a balance of food types and not eat the same thing each day – for mental as well as physical health. When packing for ten days  – and considering my pack is size XS in recognition of my lack of  torso (I am like a spider – all limbs and negligible body) – bulk is also a crucial issue. An XS pack is made for eleven year olds who don’t go on ten-day expeditions; it’s incredibly hard to find space for anything. The first long expedition I ever did (six days in December 2014), I couldn’t do the packing – only partly because my thumb was dislocated and I had no stuffing power. My students, who knew how much and how often I eat, were intrigued by the problem of how to fit what they knew I’d eat into one rucksack, believing the challenge was impossible to solve. They came around to have dinner and then pack my pack for me. They approved of my food choices and brands (my students are self-declared food snobs), and somehow got it all in. Thanks so much dear Jessie and Gracey!! Miss you heaps.

The two who got me packed against all odds (husband and dog did not help).

Below is a detailed list of what I took on a ten-day walk in January this year.

10-day walk: (which only lasted 8 due to a variety of factors, but I packed, catered and carried for the 10 of our plans).
Breakfast, daily.
1 pkt porridge, consisting of: 1 handful oats, small handful of raisins, another of craisins, 6 pieces of freezedried “Forrager Fruit” apples, 1 son brown sugar.
4 x Valley Seed Crisps (or, 1 linseed “Clever Cookie” biscuit and 2 x Valley Seed  crisps)

1 x dessertspoon ground espresso coffee in 1 cup water.

 

Dining room table (rock) all ready to go. Water laid on. View to dream about. This is the best way to eat (Arm River Track).
Lunch:
Meals 1-3: 1 wholegrain roll with parmesan cheese, sliced, and plenty of tomato relish (Vix Kitch). Carrots and celery, Droewors (South African dried sausage) and Kooee beef jerky on the side.
Meals 4-10 (per meal):
1 slice peccorino cheese (7 x 5 x 1cm in dimension (approx)).
1 stick celery
4 baby carrots
max 3 corn circle crisps / dried biscuits.
1 x 5 cm stick of Droewors (from Trevallyn grocer) + Kooee Beef Jerky
For dessert: A bite or two of one of my sweeter muesli bars.
In 8 days, I ate 1 x Kate Morgan meal supplement (Vanilla) divided into three meals (ie 1/3 per day). NB. This is not as a substitute for a meal to lose weight, it is IN ADDITION to a meal to add extra, non-bulky calories and reduce my need to snack quite as often as I normally do.
Ate 4 shortbreads (Cripps). Could have eaten more. Hit a spot.
Another perfect setting, which somehow makes dehydrated concoctions taste like the most wonderful delectables you’ve ever tried (Eldons).
Dinner:
1 x Maddel veggie cube in water (lighter and smaller than cup of soup packets) per day
1 (in total) cup of soup, had right near end for variety (didn’t actually need variety in this).
1 freezedried meal (mostly army brand)
For variety also had 1 x Backcountry Roast Lamb and 1 x Outdoor Gourmet Co Mediterranean Lamb with Olives. Both well received.
Allowed 1 x half dried peach per day, had as pre-dessert

1 x liquor chocolate at night for dessert

 

Here on the Southern Ranges, we all got our stoves and sat around a (mostly) dried-out tarn to cook and eat – and to exchange stories, a necessary part of the eating ritual in the bush.

 

Half an hour later, eating ceded to photography as food was ignored and cameras were considered far more important than calories.
Snacks: NB. Did NOT get through the 4 allowed per day. Probably didn’t even get through 3 / day. Still, good to have as emergency.
Went through (by sharing) almost 1 x packet of light soya snacks from Grand Central
1.5 pkts Kooee beef jerky. Yum. Needed salty snacks like this. (Grand Central)
1 large handful dried cumin soy beans (Coles).Went down well
should have taken dried broad beans – love them (Coles)
Quite a lot of ginger (loose, dried) for self and others – all loved it.
2 x toffee-almond bars J (Trevallyn grocer)
2 x sesame snack packets of four (in a single sitting, each). J
2 x Mogli MandelRiegel. YUM (Trevallyn)
3 x Baracke classic halva bars. Yum. (Trevallyn)
1 x Go Natural Cacoa Fruit Nut, almond and raspberry bars. Yum,
1 x Bounce almond protein hit (health food shop in arcade). Pretty good.
1 x weightwatchers macadamia and cranberry bar. Like.
1 x Isowey High protein bar – berry and yoghurt bar. Nice enough.
1 x Brookfarm bar (macadamia and cranberry). OK
1 x Be Natural trail bar. Berry. Tolerable.
½ Lo Carb (blue pkt) protein bar: Dark Choc Mint. OK
½ Lo Carb Orange protein bar. Didn’t do it for me.
1.5 x Nude Food Cacao & Hazelnut bars. Too much coconut and sunflower oil L. Didn’t  like.
Finishing off breakfast in a valley in between Stepped hills and Mt Wright

Took but didn’t eat: (Brought home 1 kg uneaten snacks.) Remember, we came out two days early + you need to be prepared for emergencies that keep you in there longer than expected.

1 extra packet of savoury bickies.
Emergency deb potato + soup
2 x AntiOx snack bar. Like??
1 x Paleo Crunch raw strawberry protein bar. Like??
1 x Lo Carb orange protein bar. L
2 more Mogli Mandel-Riwegel. Yum Yum.
2 more Baracke classix halva. Yum again
2 x toffee almond bar.
1 x bounce cocoa mint protein bomb. Like ?? (Health food shop in arcade).
2 Go Natural Almond-Raspberry bar
1 x Protein FX energy bar Choc Mint
1 x Pure Organic wild blueberry bar. YUM !!!!!!!!!!!!!
1 x Paleo Crunch Raw Cacao bar. Like? No
2 extra Kate Morgan meals that I didn’t need 

Does it get better than eating with a view like this all to yourselves?
Sundry:
Also had 1 x cup of tea (took 4 bags)
1 small (100gms) gas canister lasted 8 days (had another with me in case).

Next time, pack 1 x safety pin. Had with me 1 x click strap, 1 x shoelace, 1 x guy rope and 1 x peg. Happy to have had those!

Abels: The List of top Abelists

In January 2015, Bill Wilkinson asked me to make a list of people who had completed, or nearly completed, the Abels. We agreed that ’20 or fewer to go’ was the male cut off point. I have decided that making it to 75 gave a good representation of the top female Abelists, so that is the female cut-off; he agreed we did not want “Abelling” to look as if it was a game only for the boys. He was going to publish the List in his book.

(L to R) Geoff O’Hara (16th), Tony Woolford (4th), Paul Geeves (2nd) and Rohan Hutchinson on a beautiful evening on the Southern Ranges

Since his request, a certain faction has done some campaigning, and now the presence of such a list in his book was cancelled. I have done a lot of work on his behalf getting the list together, and encouraging people to climb, so do not want my requested homework wasted. Here is the List as it now stands. If any information there is incorrect, please let me know, and if anyone has made it onto the list, please let me know so I can add them. Thanks so much to those on the List who have encouraged me in my stats keeping. Well done all on the List for knowing our beautiful mountains in such variety and for undertaking the expeditions that are required if one is to be here. You are all great bush people who deserve respect.

Maureen Martin, first female completer
Phil Dawson First completer

Completed all Abels, in order of completion:

01 Phil Dawson             Record: first completer
02 Paul Geeves            Second fastest to do a round of Abels: 17 yrs 10 mths.
03 Kent Lillico               Aged 50 on completion. Was once youngest completer
04 Tony Woolford       Record: First family man to complete
05 Andrew Davey
06 Malcolm Waterston Record: first person to complete all Abels and Scottish Munroes
07 John Carswell        Record: longest time to complete: 54 years.
08 Brian O’Byrne        Aged 68 on completion. 
09 Martin Doran
10 Mark Wright
11 Dale Lisson
12  Maureen Martin    Record: First woman
13 David Walker
14 Zane Robnik.          Records: Youngest completer; second fastest round of  Abels (aged 26 yrs + 2 days on completion, which took 2 years, 197 days).
15 Shelly Napier       Second female. Second fastest female to complete. (7 yrs, 5 months, 18 days).  Record:  Youngest female  completer; second youngest completer overall. Age at completion: 36 yrs.
16 Geoff O’Hara

17 Graeme Pennicott
18 Terry Brain              First Supervet. 73 yrs 10 months and 6 days old on completion.
19 David Griffiths      Record for oldest completer. Aged 76 (2021). No exact data for a record supplied.
20 Louise Fairfax      Third woman to complete. Record: First person to climb all the English Wainwrights as well as the Tasmanian Abels. 10 years to complete.
21  Stuart Bowling   Aged 50. 15 yrs to complete.
22 Lewi Taylor           Record: fastest completer. 158 days.
=23 Emma-Jane Budarick   Emma and William are the first couple to complete the Abels together, having done them all together. Bravo you two! (Done in 4.6 years). Emma 35, Will 37.
=23 William Gregory. (See above)
25 Becca Lunnon Aged 36. 11 years to complete. 5th woman.
26 John Whiteley
27 Steve Griffin
= 28 Nitya Malhotra   Second  Couple to complete all Abels togetherNitya and Alex are the first couple to take their baby to their final summit: The Needles no less.  Adi is 9 months old.  He climbed Feder in utero.
= 28 Alex Willows    (See above.)   
30  Kathy Cotton
=31 Ben Wells
=31 Tracey Orr
33 Jacqui Taylor. Record: Fastest female completer 2 yrs 3 months. Third fastest overall. Age on completion: 1 day before 42nd birthday.
34 Nick Morgan
= 35 Nelly Brett, 17. First junior; first junior woman; first parent and child combination. Bravo!!!  9 yrs 11 months 17 days. (Nelly: 17 yrs, 11 months 17 days)
= 35 Gavin Brett. Proud 55 yr old father of Nelly. They climbed all Abels together.

 

Dale Lisson, 11th finisher
5 or fewer to go:

Steve Jacobs               (1)
Nick Morgan                (1)
Lee Evans   (F)             (2)    Abelling 50 years so far (2022). Aged 63 (2022)
Harris, Dave                 (2)

Mark Hallam                (3)    Aged 45 (2022)
David Tongs                 (4)

6-10 to go:

11-20 left:
David Young   (SV)       (11)   David is over 70 (2020)
Chris Howard                (13)
Rohan Hutchinson      (18)
Matthew Cloudsdale (18)
David Seaton                 (19)
Brendan Young            (19)
Gregory Eade                (20)

Female completers.
1  Maureen Martin
2  Shelly Napier          Youngest, fastest female to complete. (35)
3  Louise Fairfax
4  Emma-Jane Budarick
5  Becca Lunnon       36 on completion. 2nd youngest female to complete
6  Nitya Malhotra
7 Kathy Cotton
8 Tracey Orr
9 Jacqui Taylor
10 Nelly Brett (17) New record for being the youngest completer, and, of course, the youngest female.

Becca Lunnon 5th female finisher.
Nitya Malhotra after climbing Federation. 6th female to complete.

Females with 75 or more Abels:
Lee Evans                (156)
Carolyn Farrar        (144)
Helen Thyne           (124)
Sally Coltheart       (118)
Jess McDonald      (115)
Suellen Jones         (107)  Aged 72 (2021).
Vonda Kerrison      (100)
Amanda Lennard  (88)
Tess Kendrick         (83)    Aged 15, 2021.
Sue McKinnon       (83)
Sally-Anne Richter  (83)
Pamela Tabor        (75)

Gear List

Gear List for bushwalking.

Are you ready for this? It can happen in January

Some of my followers on IG and blog have asked if I could give advice on packing – of clothes and food. I am happy to oblige, and will begin with gear. Before I do so, however, I need to stress a couple of matters that seem important to me, and that should be borne in mind when reading this.

A different snow squall, different place – any time of year

(1) Individuals differ from each other in the extent to which they feel the cold. What is good and necessary for me might be insufficient for you. In the case of ‘the cold’ that is actually unlikely, as I am a renowned wuss, but thought I’d better mention it.
The most important thing is to know your own body, and know it well before you step into the wilderness. Being in the wilderness is as much an experience of self learning as it is one of seeing beautiful wild places.

If you count on getting saturated, then you won’t be disappointed.

(2) Begin simple, so you can learn from your mistakes without killing yourself. I have heard of first-timers who want to start their ‘bushwalking career’ with the Mt Anne circuit or the Western Arthurs. This is like a beginner in high jumps setting the opening bar at 2 metres.
When we wanted to take our 6- and 8-year-old daughters on the Overland Trail, we first took them on the 33 km Freycinet Peninsula walk as a warm-up – both for them and for me, the provider. I weighed and measured everything in those three days to learn for double that number.
If you have never experienced even a daywalk on a Tasmanian exposed mountain in a black mood, how can you plan for five? I once took a Swiss friend to Cradle, insisting he pack certain precautionary clothes. He was indignant, and scoffed: “I live higher than the summit of this mountain, and you’re telling me what to bring?” He didn’t get past Hansons Peak, and had the grace to apologise. The incident points to the fact that height is not felt in the same way in all circumstances, and height on top is very different from the same height in a valley.

More soaked walkers – it’s a recurring theme

(3) You need to be prepared to be tough and uncomfortable if you don’t want to burden yourself with a pack full of wet gear. Most (all?) of us put on wet clothes each day (in continually raining conditions) rather than wet a different outfit each day, only to have the new outfit wet after five minutes. This means, of course, that your daytime get-them-wet clothes need to be made of a fabric that is comfortable and warm when wet, and that will dry quickly if given quarter of a chance. I use icebreaker gear next to my skin, supplement it with a thermal or icebreaker long sleeve top, then have a third layer of a padded jacket that is warm when wet (mine is a macpac Pulsar hoody, not down for day), and over that, my Anorak (rain jacket). Even so, I need to keep moving to keep warm. PS Now I use an Arc’terx hoody instead of a macpac Pulsar, as it’s warmer.

Perhaps another theme – comical – is to be careful of your company. Do we assume cause and effect (or post hoc ergo propter hoc fallacy) if I tell you every photo above was taken on an LWC walk? It does make the incidental point that clubs get out there and do it, even when the weather is not kind. I have stood on many a misty, freezing summit huddled with LWC or HWC members, penguin style, warming each other up (hopefully). 

(4) You must have a complete dry set of everything for nighttime, when it is imperative that you warm up and sleep dry. This includes nighttime woollen socks, gloves, beanie and undies; i.e., double up on everything. (In summer, you can sometimes get away with one thermal top and long johns – but even then, you can get caught out, as I have been; better to be safe).

(5) Have a bag of warm, dry clothes in the car. Assume you’ll arrive back cold and wet. Anything else is a bonus.

You can pack a baby if you wish

My Gear List.
Tent                                         Sleeping bag
compass                               map

stove                               gas
matches                                 inner sheet?
Sleeping mat                        blue carpet underlay for extra insulation
2-3 prs wollen socks        crocs for camp
headtorch                              phone for gps / navigation
Camera gear                        spare batteries? (camera, torch, phone)
water sac / bladder           EPIRB
water bottle                          cup / mug
penknife with scissors     2 spoons (1 to use, 1 to lose)
tiny towel                                 wetex to wipe wet tent
walking shirt, quick dry     walking pants or shorts
Thermal top x 2                    Thermal long johns x 2
waterproof pants x 2         3 prs gloves (fleece, wool + possum)
scrub gloves                           anorak (ie, rain jacket)
boots                                         gaiters 
icebreaker singlet               day pack for day climbs from base                   
beanies – 1 for day, 1 night     silk balaclava   
lip cream                                   sun hat
paper for writing                   pen                 
3 prs undies (1 of wool)      crop top
Arcteryx jacket (for night)   extra jacket (Pulsar) warm when wet for day wear
face cream                               sun cream
sunglasses                                pack cover
Toothbrush                              Toothpaste
Blister gear (Compeed)      Panadol
Anti-inflammatory tabs      tinea cream          
food (to be discussed later)      whistle (if Osprey pack, it’s part of your pack)           
book?                                       If you are on any medication, then those tablets.
Some need electrolyte tablets to replace salt lost in sweat.
light spade for toilet use        toilet paper (please have mercy on the bush and     use only when necessary. Leaves can be an excellent substitute for quality).
I also take 2 pegs and a bit of chord. You never know what can come in handy.

Plaster can mend trousers as well as legs.
You have no idea how handy doubling up can be. On a ten-day expedition I went on:
I forgot toilet paper, but W had 2 rolls and gave me one;
M forgot his hat, but J had two;
B lost his sunglasses, but J had two pairs;
S broke his stove, but A had two;
C broke her spoon, but I had two;
Someone tore their pants, but C had a sewing kit;
W broke his pole, but S had a pole repair kit;
My tablets for pain were dated 2007, which A informed me would not work in 2016, but she had spare.
The list goes on, for sure. This is all I can remember.
Helping out and being helped in mutual working towards the goals is the theme.