Trestle Mountain 2021 Apr

The forecast was horrendous: gales and sleet – not anyone much’s idea of fun. Gussy and I had hoped to climb Mt Mueller with HWC, as then we could get past the locked gate barring cars from a decent entry point, but, perhaps not surprisingly, we were the only two who turned up. The leader bailed out, and so I decided to take young Gus (9) to climb Trestle Mountain instead. We’d approach via the Mountain River track, which I find to be very beautiful: I love the mossy greenness of its path, and the fact that it is more a pad than a highway, which all too many Tassie paths are becoming these days. The forest would protect us from the wind right up until the final saddle, I decided. The light rain cum snow, we’d just take on board as we went.

Climbing Trestle

The other thing I like about this path is that it is very, very steep: almost unrelenting, and I just love the act of climbing. Perhaps the steepness is what has saved it from highway status. We would warm up nice and quickly.  (The temperatures were not, at this stage, exactly appealing.) Looking up into the thick mist, I told Gus we only had about 20% chance of making the summit, but we’d at least have a workout.

Climbing Trestle

Up we climbed, Gussy doing very well indeed, and the saddle between Trestle and Collins Bonnet getting ever nearer. I had already increased our chances of summiting to 75%, but no higher, even though the summit was very near now, because I feared the blast across its wind-tunnel might be prohibitive, and we were only in this for enjoyment, so if Gussy found it unpleasant, we would immediately about-turn. He was, at this stage, worried about gusts and ice on top, which was another reason for the low percentage so high. I pointed out the rocks ahead that lie under the summit, and said if we made it that far, I’d increase our chances to 90%, but I wasn’t committing to a sure summit before I could see it close by.

Descending

The day before, I had had a hard knock in the head with a soccer ball, playing goalie for five primary students who were shooting two balls at me (or the goal), and suddenly felt a little wave of slight, yet passing, dizziness. I asked Gus what he would do if I actually fainted. He said he would phone his parents using my phone (and rattled off their numbers), and, if he couldn’t raise them, then he’d call emergency. He thought his parents would deal better with authorities than a grade 4 student. Good answer Gussy. On we went.

Descending

The conditions in the saddle were much milder than we had anticipated, but not pleasant for a rest. On we forged. I was delighted to see tree coverage going up the slope until quite near the summit. I thought we’d definitely get to the 95% point, but may yet be fouled out by gusts and ice on top. Gus liked our odds.
As it was, there was a brief lull in the fighting force of the wind, and we got to the summit, took a brief couple of shots and descended before the fury began again. Gus was not a scrap interested in snacking up there. In fact, he held off having food until we reached the car over two hours later. And there, we refuelled mightily! His mum had packed us a veritable feast, originally planned as a forest or summit one, but now had under more clement conditions down low. It was still lovely there.
Data; 23.63 km equivalents, comprising 14.02 horizontal kms + 961 ms climb.

Altitude graph. The climb is pretty relentless.

Bruny Island 2021 Mar

In my family, we value time – and in particular, time together – far more than things, and, although I was given some very nice “things”, my most treasured gift of my recent birthday was the time that my Tassie family was able to give me: three days, although, in fact, it kind of became a birthday week.

Adventure Bay, Bruny Island

And what extravagant thing did we do with this time together? A luxury cruise? A flight somewhere? No. We rented an AirBnb at Adventure Bay on Bruny Island and had bushwalks, fungi hunts, beach races and a mountain climb. Here is our itinerary:
Day 0. Arrive

Adventure Bay, Bruny Island

Day 1. Photograph the dawn. A.m.: Fungi hunt in the Mavista Reserve (5 kms). Picnic lunch on an unnamed beach. And in the afternoon, my daughter and I walked the Labillardiere Track while Keith minded the children. This was 25 km equivalents, done at a talking march in 3 hrs 30. We both enjoy a good workout, and walking quickly meant the time we were gone was less. Our route was clockwise, and we really loved the second half of this route, along the coast with myriad beaches and the water beside us. The sign says 6 – 6.5 hours, which would be more realistic as a meander pace.

Adventure Bay, Bruny Island
Hatching Aseroa rubra Mavista Reserve

Day 2. Lucky I didn’t run that 25 kms yesterday, as the children chose beach racing as the morning’s activity, and I was about to need all my legs could offer, which wasn’t quite enough. The beach is 1.7 kms long. Based on his speed when he joined me on a training run last year, I gave Gus 30 seconds’ start. He shot out on “Go” like a bullet. I thought: “There’s no way he’ll keep that up; I’ll catch him shortly after half way.”

Waves, Adventure Bay

He covered a lot of ground in his thirty seconds! Off I set in hot pursuit, but appeared to be gaining absolutely nothing. Somewhere in the halfway region, I thought maybe I had reined in a single metre, but he pulled ahead again, and once he sniffed the finish approaching, was off like a chasing cheetah to the line, making distance on me with every stride. This is the first time he has legitimately beaten me, and he did it with style. We celebrated his win with an ice cream. I am proud of him. Good distance running is the reflection of a good lifestyle, not just good genes.

The thrill of the chase, Adventure Bay
Making dad feel slow
Adventure Bay. Beach running is such fun.

Meanwhile, and not to be totally outdone by big brother, little Abby made dad look slow, even if he wasn’t on full throttle. She just can’t wait to be old enough to do school races like Gussy does. At five she will be offered a Teddybear  race and Egg and spoon. I’m not sure if she’ll be allowed a straight sprint.

Hypholoma australe

In the afternoon, we all climbed Mt Mangana, with many, many colourful fungi to be cheered about along the way. Gussy helped me photograph a selection on our way back down.

Fluted Cape walk. Gussy about to reach the highest point on the track
Fluted Cape Track highpoint.

Day 3. Unfortunately, we had to pack up for the first part of the morning, but were then able to squeeze in the Fluted Cape walk before lunch. Gussy and I took about fifty minutes in each direction; Abby, a bit longer. This time we did the route anti-clockwise. I have now done it in both directions, and am really hard pressed to say which one I prefer: each offers different advantages.

Fluted Cape walk. By the cliffs
Fluted Cape walk. Looking to Penguin Island
Fluted Cape walk. Gussy in action
Fluted Cape walk. Gussy in action

And sadly, after lunch it was time to drive home. I could happily live on Bruny!

Legges Tor 2020 “Summer”

Perhaps you imagine Tasmania to be a nice gentle place to be in summer, with balmy temperatures. Perhaps you fancy swimming most days with a few gentle walks up friendly mountains. If this is what you want, well, I need to disappoint you. We are a bit far south for all that, although, of course, you can strike lucky.

Rugging up for a summer ascent.

But if you fancy something wild and rough and rugged; if you’re prepared for snow, gales and a drenching in summer; if you delight in the tempestuous side of weather and find it stimulating and thrilling, then Tassie has plenty to offer you.

Climbing

The Swedes have a saying that there is no such thing as bad weather, only bad clothing. My family agrees, and with that in mind, we donned our puffer jackets, beanies, mittens and anoraks (all of which were needed) and headed up for everybody else’s first ascent of Legges Tor in the famous Ben Lomond National Park, to stand upon Tasmania’s second highest point, which was a grand adventure for the children.

Gussy makes the impressive summit cairn. Another Abel for him.
Rapid descent. Practising his orienteering skills. Gussy is in third class.

I think the photos tell their own story. You will see the hair blowing about the children’s faces, the warm jackets and ski gloves to fend off the cold. I hope the body language also suggests to you that they are enjoying themselves, which they are. It was bracing and enlivening. You will also see that the scoparia was nicely in flower, making the high area a mass of colour.

Pre-schooler Abby negotiates the rocks

I really love it up there … more so in winter when icy rime covers the rocks in a tracery of delicately laced patterns, or when snow like icing sugar decorates the bushes, but summer also has its own grandeur.

After lunch in a sheltered spot, we walk back through swathes of colourful scoparia.
Orites revolutus. One of the many colourful and fragrant wildflowers up here.

Cradle holiday with small children 2020

We have just finished the Tassie October school holidays, and, despite an inauspicious weather forecast of two days’ rain and two of snow for our four nights, we three adults and two children were excited. (Three generations are present). I packed four of everything that might be needed, just in case I got drenched each day, and as a result, hardly needed anything.
In case it is helpful to other families planning walks, I will outline our itinerary below. To help you contextualise activities, the children involved are in third class (boy) and preschool (girl). I think one is now supposed to call that Early Learning Centre. Whatever. Abby is 4, and will be in Prep next year. Both children are very fit and capable for their age.

Abby climbs Mt Campbell

Arrival day and night number one. We drove up from Launceston, arriving in time for a picnic lunch and an “Enchanted Forest Walk”. At 2 pm we could check in to our accommodation and clear protocol with the rangers, which we did, so that at 3pm we were on the bus heading for Dove Lake, wanting to climb Mt Campbell. I was somewhat worried about the time, but if we missed the last bus, we missed it, and any and all three of the adults were capable of running back to the car at the end if need be to then come and pick up the stranded children.
Off we set. Little Abby smashed out the first part, getting to the saddle below Mt Campbell in a mere 29 minutes, with the rest of us in tow. This boded very well for our time limits. We stopped in the biting wind and had muesli bars and lollies – well, we popped down the other side a bit in order to be out of the direct force of the wind.

Gussy descending Mt Campbell

Once we were climbing again, we became very exposed to the force of the buffeting blasts. I kept very close to Abby, as she was blown sideways several times, and was not comfortable with the conditions. She only weighs 14.5 kgs, so is easily knocked around by bullying winds. Bravely she continued climbing, handling “the notch” with aplomb. However, once we were on top and even more exposed to the brunt of the fury, she had had enough, and it was cuddle time. Kirsten (her mum / my daughter) carried her off to begin the descent while Gussy, his dad Keith and I “enjoyed” the summit area for a bit longer.
We all had to run for the bus at the end, and arrived in a big puff, to then discover this was the second last bus, not the final one. Ah well. The run was fun anyway. We returned to our lovely cabin at Waldheim and went hunting for grazing wombats before it got dark. We were still on winter time at this stage.

More wombat admiring that evening

Day 2. I woke early and was about to go off wombat watching when Kirsten joined me, so the two of us had a lovely long walk to Lake Lilla in the early golden light, returning in time for family breakfast.

Lake Lilla before breakfast

On this day, we had chosen to climb Crater Peak, despite the forecast for rain. It was a beautiful climb, and quite a dramatic little peak, with a massively sharp drop into Crater Lake way, way below. Abby climbed well, but, as with the day before, she had spent most of her energy in the climb, and wanted to be carried for the less engaging descent.

Abby leads us up Crater Peak

We came back using Marions Lookout, as Abby wanted a bus ride. (She thought the busses were great fun). A man who had seen us climbing, but who now approached from behind saw that Kirsten was carrying someone (who now appeared to be flopped unconscious across her shoulders).

Gussy summits Crater Peak

“Oh no”, he said.
“What’s wrong?”, I asked.
“Someone must be injured; she’s being carried.”
“No. She’s four, and she’s climbed Mt Campbell and Crater Peak in the last twenty four hours. She’s just very tired.”
He smiled at the slumped form with a gentle look. “I’d want to be carried too”, he added.

Abby near the top, Crater Peak

While the others headed off on the path to Dove Lake and busses, Gussy and I hived off and went “home” via the route that sidles around Wombat Peak, follows Crater Creek and takes in Crater Falls before crossing Ronny Creek and ascending mildly to Waldheim. Wombats were grazing and the rain was now falling rather earnestly as we emerged from the forest, still dry, and dashed for our cabin in time for lunch.

Crater Falls

In the afternoon, I minded the children while the parents went running, and after they returned, I did a rainforest walk out the back of our cabin. Everything was shining with the raindroplets of the intermittent showers. Snow fell later.

Day 3. On this day, the rain was fierce and the children a bit tired. While the parents ran, the children and I did two “7-minute workout”s, using muscles other than climbing ones. We turned it into fun. When the parents returned, it was my turn to go out, so I did the Dove Canyon track, taking my photographic gear, and shooting falls that I have not seen before, and discovering that Knyvet falls as named by the NP blue sign, are not the Knyvet Falls on the map (they are just an unnamed blue line) The falls named as Knyvet Falls on the map have no sign in the terrain, and are a double fall, skirting each side of a huge boulder. I have never seen a photo of these falls, and never heard that there is any discrepancy here. I just called them “Pencil Pine Falls 3”. I then went off to photograph “Pencil Pine Falls 4”, which are also a blue line on the map, but not named. They were PUMPING.

Pencil Pine Ck Falls 4
Pencil Pine Ck Falls 3, called Knyvet on the map, but not in the bush
Pencil Pine Ck Falls 2, called Knyvet Falls by the blue sign, but unnamed on the map.

After lunch, I wanted the children to do some walking, mainly as I was babysitting while the parents ran again, and I didn’t want to be stuck in our room on a beautiful rainy day, so I persuaded them they’d like a walk around the lake and a BUS RIDE, Abby. The parents ran around the lake twice and then ran back while we just did a pleasant walk to the end and back, and then – do I confess?- the children had huge fun playing diving onto the bed in our new accommodation at the lodge. (Maybe I was hoping to be fired as a babysitter).

Playing during our walk around the lake

Day 4.
The morning of this day is a bit of a blur, if you don’t count the marvels of sitting in the dining room at the lodge, imbibing a beautiful breakfast, and watching great fat flakes of snow delicately ballet their way through the air to the ground. I think I played hangman’s noose with the children while their parents went running. Then, in the afternoon, came one of my favourite parts of the holiday. Now Keith minded the children (the three of them doing the Dove Canyon full circuit), while Kirsten and I went off into the clouds and snow and climbed Artillery Knob.

En route to Artillery Knob. Can you see the snow flakes?

It was magic up there. The snow continued to fall lightly while we walked and talked, revealing and concealing knobs and bluffs up high, and tarns below. It was so pleasant to have that time and space together.
When we returned, the children were full of stories about how awesome and amazing the waterfalls on their route were. Having seen them the previous day, I knew what they were talking about; they really were spectacular. so full of unadulterated power, thundering down the cliffs.
Day 5.
And sadly, as it marked the terminus of our holiday, day 5 dawned. We had another sumptuous breakfast, packed our bags and checked out, and headed for the last time this trip for the Lake. Today, Gussy, Keith and I would do a snow climb of Cradle; Abby and Kirsten would climb up to Lake Wilks at 1050 ms asl.

Gussy climbing Cradle

The morning was icy cold and the tarns and puddles en route frozen, so I began to doubt whether we could pull this one off. Where the ground had ice rather than snow, it was very slippery indeed. I gazed up at the mountain ahead, wondering what it would be like up there. We agreed in advance that I would lead to test conditions, Gussy would go in the middle, and Keith would be behind him to protect him from the rear should he slip. I had adaptable mini-crampons on board for him should they be needed.

Cradle Mountain summit area

The first bit of the steep part once you start the climb proper was easy for him, so we let him lead in the end. Only right near the big saddle did things become challenging, and he did do a bit of a nasty slide at one point. On the whole, he was very careful, and made great choices about which mini-route to take. Where he slipped, the snow just rushed out from under him.
After the saddle, we were very careful: Gus was a bit shaken by the slip, and  there was no need for haste. The notch was a bit tricky in ice, but we got over it, and then it was not too bad along the snowy tops to the summit cairn.
By the time we had lingered to eat and enjoy the view, the sun had dried the wet rocks, and some of the ice had melted. This made the descent much easier than the ascent had been. Down the bottom, near the boatshed, Abby and Kirsten were waiting for us.
Abby was impatient to run with Gus to the finish, maybe a kilometre away. Off they set, with we three adoring adults smiling to see this tiny little pink-jacketed, blonde-haired darling flowing through the scenery in a running style to die for, pursued by big brother, who, being a total gentleman although only in third class, tucked in behind her, and allowed her the lead the whole way. Near the end, we adults also had to run, as the bus had come, and we feared it was the final one. Yet again, it was the second last, and we didn’t have to run seven and a half kilometres in addition to what we’d already done in the last few days.

Abby on the rocks

Every single person I spoke to on the mountain had shocking “bus angst”. Does that REALLY belong in a National Park??? Bushwalkers don’t want viewing platforms; they want to be allowed access to the wilderness so they can be immersed in it and benefit from its restorative powers. 7.5 kms extra walking on a sealed road at the end of a long day is not wilderness immersion. It is not wilderness at all. It is bowing down to the god of tourism – a false god that is already fat and greedy enough.

 

Pine Valley with children 2020 Jul

Deciding to take two young children on a three-day venture into relatively remote wilderness in the middle of winter seemed to me like a pretty daring proposition, given the weight of the parental packs and the distance to be covered; and yet, I felt it had a strong enough chance of success to be excited by the idea, and, hey, if it didn’t quite work, at least we’d all be together in the beautiful mountains doing something, and maybe I could be of help. I was excited.

Abby outside Narcissus Hut, getting ready to begin

Why was this task so enormous? Because (i) four-year-old children should not walk monster distances, and the track to Pine Valley was probably beyond the limits of what would normally be advised for that age, and (ii) young children need more clothes that we do: they can get their gear wet more readily than an adult does, and do not tolerate being too cold. They also eat a lot, especially Gussy, who, although only eight, is growing rapidly and seems to be an eating machine. Bruce and I stopped overnight bushwalking with the girls when they were 3 and 1. We stopped on the day that I fell over face first, not strong enough to stabilise myself with both a baby and all the normal gear on my back. (Bruce also had a huge pack, and carried the three-year old when she got tired.) That was on the South West Coast Trail. Hm.

Bridge over the Narcissus River. Gussy.

But here I was, back at the starting line, my “three-year old” now a mum of two delightful children, doing for them what we did for her, or, in this case, more, as she is stronger than I ever was. Gussy (8) carried his own clothes and sleeping bag; Abby (4) carried her lollies (and even they were given up after a short time. Two hands are nice). The parents’ packs were ginormous. My pack was heavy enough for me, as winter packs always weigh quite a bit, and I also had in my camera, tripod and filters, all of which total about 6 kgs before you begin on the other items. But we were travelling at four-year-old pace, so it was more weight bearing than furious exercise that was going to test us.

Beauty on the track. Gussy

Our goal (or our high hope?) was to reach Pine Valley Hut by the end of the day. It didn’t matter if we didn’t get there, as we were camping anyway, but it’s a nice flat area, and a good base for going up the Acropolis on day 2.  We took a very long time to reach the half-way mark, as there were lots of deep puddles that posed problems for both children. Abby “flew” (courtesy of dad or mum) over most of the big ones, but Gussy, being heavier, had to negotiate his way around, which took time. I was so glad about the real bushwalker boots I had purchased for him, and so was he. His pack weighed about 6 kgs, which was heavy for his young frame, and I could see that his shoulders were a little sore by the way he was carrying it (just like I sometimes do – pulling the straps forward to take the weight off the shoulders for a while), but he never muttered even a quarter of a murmur of complaint.

Track turnoff. Abby no doubt negotiating lolly intake.

On we progressed, over the swinging bridge near the turnoff to the valley, and I feared we would be arriving in the dark. (There had been no normal 9 a.m. ferry, so we had fewer hours to fit the journey in than most). Abby was offered a piggy back or huggle-carry, but wanted to walk the whole way, so on the train moved at that pace. It gave us time to enjoy the magnificent forest.

Pine Valley: our goal. (Day 2)

About a kilometre before the end, the scotch-mist became more of an intent drizzle, and the day was getting threateningly dark. We agreed that I would set out a bit faster with Gussy, to at least get him in relatively dry, while the other two worked on Abby to persuade her to allow help. She really wanted to do it all herself.

Cephissus Falls

Gussy and I arrived, and I began with tasks like water collection to make everyone some hot soup. In very little time, Kirsten and Abby (carried) arrived, which meant Keith was still out in the forest carrying two huge packs. Kirsten deposited Abbs and hurried back to help him while I minded the children. I thought they would whinge about being cold or wet or hungry, but when I said I was working on making some soup, they were delighted, and sat quietly while I got the gear and nudged in the direction of soup. Abby was delighted that it was to be “Two Minute Nudel soup”; no complaints about the menu there! I think each child ate two packets of that, and then progressed to pasta for main course. Again, squeals of excitement at getting their favourite food were the cheerful noise that filled the night sky.

Frosty environment when out of the forest

Dinner eaten, we pitched the tents. The others played cards, but I was fixated on warming up my tent space on what was already a very cold night (it went to minus 3), so just listened to the game across the fabric.

Day 3 morning

The next day, we wanted to rest Abby, so Keith stayed at base, playing with her and Gussy. Kirsten set out up the Acropolis, to do as much of it as possible in the time allocation (she needed to be back for a midday lunch), and I set off with my camera gear, having a wonderful time. It would have been nice to also go up the Acropolis in the snow, but there wasn’t time for everything, and we decided we needed to do some of the homeward journey in the afternoon to take the pressure off making the 1 pm ferry the next day.

Frosty berries of Leptecophylla juniperina

And that was the activity for the afternoon. The scenery was as beautiful as ever, and we made our goal of the half-way mark. There was a perfect camping spot there, and plenty of water. The only problem was that it was raining, but (to save weight) I had only brought my 3-season tent, which is pretty open until you get the fly on. Pitching in rain means water gets in until you have the fly up. Panic, panic. I did not want a wet “bedroom”. The children remained cheerful; I was the grumpy one, trying to race to get my tent up so I wouldn’t freeze overnight. This night would be minus 4.

Gussy bouncing around at the end

Day 3 dawned clear, with a thick white frost: so thick my boots in the vestibule were covered in a sheet of ice. The rain droplets from the night before had frozen to become myriad little ice balls, set in a context of frozen condensation. I didn’t care much, however, as the scenery was so beautiful I had to hurry out into it. I dashed off with my camera equipment, returning with hands that were dropping off. Crunch, crunch I went on the ice of the boardwalk.

And Abby, too, finishes running. (Narcissus Hut).

When I returned, the excited children wanted to show me this and that beautiful object covered in ice. Gussy and I went and inspected the river to see if mist would be rising off it. The campsite looked glorious in the shafts of golden light, all the blonde heads of hair making wonderful halos.

Leeawuleena Day 3 evening

And soon enough we were all crunch crunching on the ice for the final section, a walk punctuated by stops for lollies for the children, photos of plants covered in ice for me. The kids were positively jubilant on arrival at Narcissus hut, with oodles of time spare to wait for the ferry.

Day 4 sunrise

That night we had “normal person” accommodation. The children were so excited to have beds, switches, BEDLAMPS and a BOX OF TISSUES each – signs of decadent luxury – that I found it quite funny. It is wonderful to see such simple pleasures providing that degree of enjoyment. Paddy Pallin used to say he loved the way that bushwalking and its privations made him enjoy the normal things of life so much more, and this was certainly happening here.

Day 4 sunrise.

The next day, we would do a snow climb of Mt King William 1, which you can read about in http://www.natureloverswalks.com/mt-king-william-1/