Hobhouse 2015 Jun

Mt Hobhouse success.

The forest just below the rocks of the ridge. Our first stop where we took off the packs (for a quick drink) – which meant I could have an equally quick snap with the camera that was tucked out of the weather in cosier environs.
“Mt Hobhouse. That’ll be a tough one to get on a short winter’s day,” an acquaintance said, and of course, he was right, but we just wanted to do it, so that was that. Did one always need to be sensible?
I was farewelled on my way by the Launceston debating community, as we had had Parliamentary Shield on the Saturday. To many of those people, who inhabit a very different world to mine, the notion of abandoning creature comforts to drive over an icy and dangerous Central Plateau to then attempt to climb a remote mountain in semi-snow was something almost outrageous. They wished me well with all their wonderful hearts. My students had won both trophies on offer. The memory of their warm hugs and delighted faces, and the joy shown by their families, lining up to photograph them with their booty, buoyed me as I drove. I don’t often travel to the mountains in a skirt and stockings. I hoped Angela would recognise me in this uncharacteristic and utterly unsuitable attire. She laughed when she saw me and suggested I carry the stuff up to wear on the summit for our victory photo. I declined. We were going to stay at Bronte Park Village which has an open fire. I’d dress more appropriately later. Let’s brave the ice on the road now, without delay, before it got any worse.

Moody forest and cliffs near the top.


And here we were, sniffing the top. It had to be that next lumpy shadow appearing out of the mist. I’d checked off all the features as they went by; this was finally it.
“I can hear in your voice you’re getting excited now,” Angela commented, with enough momentum to carry her to the top even if her legs dropped off her torso right at this moment.
“Yep,” I agreed, unwilling to call it success until this moment, but now, now, it would take an atomic bomb or a fatal heart attack to keep us from that prized summit stick. We crunched on the last of the snow and covered the final twenty metres of our day’s directed endeavours.
The mountain had seemed so formidable on our first attempt – because we had come up onto the ridgeline a tad too early and had met a solid wall of cliff, well fortified by a palisade of dauntingly thick scrub. Now it seemed nothing but a song and dance across the ridgeline to the top. Amazing what 100 ms difference can make.

Weeee. We’ve done it. Angela on top.

This trip was not about views. It was about undoing a bad job last time and not admitting defeat. Last time we had done all the hard work of getting up onto the same ridgeline we were now on, but we had been timed out of finding a way around the cliffs so we could reach a point from which ascent was possible. We had started too late, underestimated our mountain, and were not prepared enough in our homework (we had actually not intended to climb the mountain on that day. It was a last minute switch).

Fabulous summit views.

So dedicated were we to our task this time that the only breaks were a toilet stop, a quick drink before the ridgeline, and a bit of time wasted looking for a cairn that we have decided has been knocked down by fallen timber (of which there is a lot. Recent storms have caused quite a number of new obstacles, even since last time we were there). We were at the top by midday, having survived the overgrown and very unclear bombardier track, the magnificent and quite open rainforest of the early part of our ridge, the slow and snowy bauera and eucalyptus band between it and the ridgeline, and the final, enjoyable semi-romp of the last section where the bushes were lower and a pad could even be seen.

Picturesque lunch spot on the descent that offered rocky substratum for our packs and shelter of sorts in the rain.

The weather was such that we didn’t linger long on the summit, and chose to eat our rather hasty lunch in the rain at the bottom of the cliffs prior to plummeting down into the bauera once more. I timed it to this spot. Twenty-three minutes. It was where we had passed through on our retreat last time. How sad that we had been so close the summit, yet had not had the time to go there. Of course, at the time we didn’t realise the journey would be so quick, and our decision to turn around had been a wise one given the time. We did not have forty six minutes (plus photos) to spare on that day, and we thought it would all take a lot longer than that, containing the possibility, we thought, for many errors and false chutes. This time we knew better, thanks to the kind advice offered to us by both Phil Dawson and Becca Lunnon, who each described their (basically identical) route across the ridge. That knowledge gave us more confidence this time.

This time I am posting both a 1:100,000 map (here) as well as the more normal 1:25,000, as this one has darker contour lines that make the shape of the land and our route more obvious. The other scale on this particular map has oddly light contour lines, and as, for me, a map is all about contours, I find that excessively unhelpful. I’ve done all I can to darken them.

The trip back, retracing our steps was uneventful if you don’t count the fact that our clothes were so sodden they were hard to keep on, and that we increasingly resembled odd wooden puppets trying to move in a way that kept pants up and frozen feet operating. We were both a little worried about how very numb our fingers were, knowing that we would need them for our lives right at the very end, but, here I am, alive to tell the tale. The return trip was slower than the ascent – partly due to the fact that the bushes now bent low over the bombardier “track”, making it impossible to differentiate from its ambient non-track scrub. We lost it several times, but were still out with a nice amount of light to spare so we could see the ice and snow on the road and attempt to dodge the animals that decided suicide at Angela’s hands was the way to go.

Here is the 1:25,000 version which usually gives you more information, but with the contour lines so very washed out, is not as useful as it should be. A combination of the two should give you all the information you need to determine our route, I hope. The line crossing the ridge is a boundary line. Don’t be tricked into thinking it’s a helpful track, although at the very top, just for the end game, there is a bit of a pad in the shorter vegetation.

Hobhouse 2015 Apr

Mt Hobhouse failure
Probably the easiest bit of forest all day. You could actually see ahead to take a photo of something

I pulled off my clothes (luckily I was standing in the bathroom) and half a ton of leaf litter and general forest debris fell to the floor (no wonder I’d been feeling prickles on my back). I couldn’t pull the huge twigs that were entwined in my plait out; they’d have to await the help of shampoo and conditioner, although I wasn’t even sure those items could do the trick. Three leeches dropped to the floor and began squirming around. My husband brought up the salt shaker and we got childish but sweet revenge on these slimy monsters, although they have had the last word. I write this two days later and I am still scratching where they bit.

The way ahead – again, an easy bit, the moment for photography wrested from our progress thanks to a toilet stop.

“So;” you say, “that was a pretty horrid trip.” No. Wrong.
“Oh then, at least you got to the top and got a point or two.” No, wrong.
“You had some nice views along the way?” No. It was cloudy nearly the whole way, and raining for the second half. The views were of my two companions and some rocks on top.
“You had a good workout then,” you’re getting desperate to find a positive at this point. I doubt even that. The bush was so very thick that we didn’t move fast enough to get the heart pumping. We fought (with greenery, not with each other) nearly the whole way.
“OK, so what on earth can you find that was positive in a day where you fought a battle against the bush that you lost, didn’t get a view, got very wet and filthy and bitten by leeches?”

The way ahead. Hm. Don’t think we’ll go on compass here.

I had a grand adventure with two really fun companions who, like me, never gave up until absolutely forced to. We still haven’t given up. All three of us are absolutely determined to return as soon as possible, correct the error we made of being on the bombardier track for too long so that the bush we had to fight was a formidable and well-equipped foe, and get to the tippy top of our peak. We might even get a view next time. You never know your luck. Das Gehen its das Ziel (the going, or journey, is the goal). We had a great journey full of chatter, and the forest was sometimes very beautiful when it wasn’t a blockade of challenge. It is cliché to call it “character building”, but it was. I would stand there, feeling defeated by the fact that I couldn’t see a way forward, and yet somehow I forced a tiny few metres of progress before the next bosky cul-de-sac.

Climbing up

The other aspect that I call positive is that we now know Hobhouse’s “dark side”, its wild parts. I agree with Robert MacFarlane that you don’t truly know a mountain unless you’ve slept on it. We didn’t put our tents up, but we did experience our mountain in a temper; we saw it dressed in rags rather than just in party clothes. I feel much better acquainted with it than if we’d had a fast and trouble-free run, and I have far more respect for it than I would have if I’d just had a dash for cash.

We worked hard with only a single, minuscule drink stop until we had crested the top of the ridge and stood on the final part of the ascent route. My gps said we only had 17 vertical metres remaining to climb. We were at a lump that was “false summit number one”. We knew the real one was number three, but it was a myth in the clag. The only clear thing about the way forward, like everything that day, was that there was no obvious route and that the going would be slow. You don’t need to be Einstein to work out that we had already run out of time. We threw down a very late lunch and turned our backs on our quest. Our mountain will wait for us, and by being sensible, we’ll be there for it sometime soon too. We hit the bombardier track just as dusk was turning into night, and it was dark before we hit the registration book that is 15 mins from the dam. The night shadows and silence added to the sense of our adventure as we completed our journey, satisfied and happy.