Jerusalem 2022

I am not quite sure why I called this blog ‘Jerusalem’ (referring to Mt Jerusalem, which we did indeed climb): A Wander in the Walls would have been more appropriate. Perhaps the vagueness of that latter title, which might have matched the imprecision of our meanderings, might have been a little too lacking in substance for readers to find anything to grasp.

Sunset view to Clumner Bluff

I hate pinning myself down and performing like a puppet to a timetable or overly defined schedule: I like to respond to weather, my mood and whatever the circumstances are that meet me in the wilderness. Luckily my friend Margie is totally comfortable with my slippery programmes. The two of us would go to the Walls, probably but not definitely sticking to the NE area, and climbing maybe this and that, observing lakes and pools both named and unnamed. We would be off track for a goodly part of the exercise. There were a few things I hoped to climb and see, but my heart was set on none of them, and with snow forecast for our second day, we weren’t really sure at all how things would play out. The only thing I knew for certain was that I wanted to sleep on top of mountains every night. We hadn’t even pinned ourselves down to a specific route for the way in. We would park and decide in the carpark.

Sunset to Mt Ossa, Pelion West and lots more.

Somehow or other, with that seeming indecision, we nonetheless wasted no time vacillating and with almost no discussion, came to agreement on our plan, whilst at the same time always leaving it open. Up we went.
I guess if we’d met some growly ranger early on who wanted to herd us like cattle into her enclosure, we might have changed tack, but we didn’t, so that left us open to plan A. Whilst in the early stages we met a few interstate walkers who asked us our destination, when we said we were heading to the NE of the park and were going to sleep on a mountain or two, they seemed to think that was cool.

Sunset view to Mt Ossa, Pelion West and more

And thus we wandered, over this named and that unnamed lump, exploring tarns lined with pencil pines, and seeing the views from quite a few high points. Eventually we chose our real estate for the night, which was as near to the summit of our lump as we could get within reason – reason dictating that we should shelter a bit from the wind that was getting quite strong by now, and promising to be more fearsome as night advanced. We found a beautiful hollow which was not quite out of the wind, but didn’t bear the full brunt.

Sunrise. How can life be this good? Epacris serpyllifolia

Meanwhile, it had lovely views and a tarn big enough to use its water for drinking. I wasn’t sure if I could light my stove for dinner, the wind was now so strong, but I managed.

Margie on Mt Jerusalem
One of many tarns to the south of Mt Jerusalem

All through the late afternoon, we kept a close watch on the advancing heavy clouds, willing them not to block the horizon at sunset. They were dark and menacing, but were still allowing room for the sun to peep through underneath. Trouble was, there were still a few hours to go until sunset, so a lot of mental coercion of the elements was required.

Lazy bones photographing from her tent.

It was by now very cold indeed, so we each retired into our respective tent to wait for the possibility of sunset, and hopefully to warm up whilst we did so. They were close enough for us to chat across the tent space.

A view worth climbing outside for

Sunset was as the pictures portray: totally magnificent. I always forget I am cold when excited by beauty, so happily shot for the duration of the golden light. Snow was forecast for the next day. Would we wake up to a white world, or would that come later? My tent flapped wildly all night, but no snow fell, and the morning brought calmer conditions and unexpected sunshine. Oh well. Snow would come later then. Let’s climb Mt Jerusalem. So we did.

Walls of Jerusalem, just how I like them

The last time I climbed Mt Jerusalem, I had giardia, and am not even sure how I managed to climb. I wasn’t actually vomiting on that day, but was gestating the illness, and had no energy or spark. I took no photos. This time I floated on the wave of beauty, and was able to enjoy all the sights. On the southern side of the broad higher area not far from the summit, there are countless tarns, so we used our afternoon well, exploring a few of them and spying on the scoparia. By mid afternoon the sunny day had ceded to wind, dark clouds and snow. We scurried to our mountain to retreat into tents and try to warm up. The tent flaps banged all night, no matter how tightly I adjusted the guys.

Margie underway

By “sunrise” we woke to a pure white world full of wonder. We both took photos from our tents, but then, deciding we were being just a bit lazy, got out and did the job properly.

Underway in the Walls of Jerusalem; summer please note.

I seemed particularly slow at packing up, but there were no pressing appointments. We both agreed to retreat back to the car at this stage rather than climb another mountain, but there was no rush, and the snow was gorgeous, so we unhurriedly got our gear together and snow-bashed our way down the mountain, along the valley, over a stream and then down through the forest of twigs and branches supporting loads of white powder, to the cars below. It was a fabulous trip, and now Mt Jerusalem joins the list of mountains that I have climbed more than once.

Walls of Jerusalem 2020 Jan

New Year’s Eve was upon me, but what should I do? Mope at home, mourning the gaping hole left in my life by Bruce’s death, or go into the wilderness, where although I may well be alone, I am never lonely? The latter, of course. The wilderness revives and refreshes me, filling me with joy and taking me right out of myself with its infinite beauty. I can be miserably lonely in my home city with its people who aren’t there for me, but I am never lonely in the putatively empty wilderness, with beauty, freedom and space as my companions.

Sunset, Mt Jerusalem

I decided the Walls of Jerusalem would be the right place to be, so phoned the kennel to see if they had any room. Luckily, a cancellation meant the answer was “Yes”, so, despite the fact that Tessie thought this was a shocking idea, and that the two of us should have a mother and doggy night at home, I deposited her mid-afternoon and drove on to the Walls, arriving later than I wanted, but, hey, this is summer and nights are pretty endless, so what did it matter?

King Davids Peak and the Western Wall

The weather forecast, checked to be certain just before I left home, was for mild weather and no rain, so I chose my light three-season tent, and left my bivvy bag, heavy night coat and more at home. Seeing’s I carry my tripod, filters and heavy camera on such a trip, I appreciate the offer of a lightened pack in other respects. Ha ha. The weather had the last laugh.

First rays on Mt Zion

As I rounded the corner into Herods Gate, I was knocked over by a blast of icy wind that roared all around and turned my hands to frozen blocks. I couldn’t wait to set up camp and shelter from its pummelling. Pity about the three-season tent that lets in way too much air for those conditions. Pity also about the fact that it was raining and that I didn’t have my bivvy bag or warmest coat to pamper myself with.

Walls: sublimity

At sunset, I was too cold to concentrate on good photography. I took all my gear to my chosen position, but just wasn’t in the mood to use it, so just took a few hand-held shots. Luckily, after yet another sleepless night in the wilderness doing bed exercises all night to stay warm, I was up at 4.50 and in the mood for photographing pre-dawn and sunrise, dancing on the spot to raise my metabolism. Later, cappuccino at Deloraine was sure appreciated. … And, because the scoparia was not quite in flower yet, the good or bad news is that I will need to return for another night in the not too distant future.

Walls of Jerusalem 2019 Jan

Walls of Jerusalem in Summer. 2019


It has been a long, long while since I have visited my old playground – the Walls of Jerusalem – in summer. For the last few years, we’ve only gone there in winter, in glorious snow. However, I was in the mood for chasing scoparia, and, even though the season for this beautiful flower was nearly over, I hoped to catch some isolated specimens still in the flush of glowing youth.

I made this decision on Saturday. On Friday, I had been so busy I was still collecting peaches at 10 pm, and making jam until 11. Next morning, it rained more peaches on my head, so I made more jam, and then spat the dummy, asked my neighbour if he could mind Tessie (dog) for a night, packed my bag hurriedly and left. I was starting just a little late, but it’s not a long walk in. I’d be there before sunset. I was at Herod’s Gates in just a click over two hours’ walking, which was pleasing, so I could climb The Temple while waiting for sunset and generally roam about exploring various pools, deciding where I wanted to be when and if the sky gave me some colour.

I dumped my pack – I’d attend to matters of actual accommodation later – set up my tripod and rampaged to and fro and up and down. Bushbashing with a set-up tripod and camera sporting its fragile filters makes for an interesting diversion, but I managed. I nearly missed good views for sunset, having not quite timed myself to be in the very best spot for the best lighting, but I didn’t miss by much, and did get light that pleased anyway.

During the night, I didn’t get much sleep. The stars were so lovely, and just being alone in the wilderness so beautiful, that I didn’t want my tent fly to spoil the view of the stars. I woke at 1.30, too cold to sleep. I put on extra layers, but left the fly up. I just couldn’t bring myself to block off my beautiful view. At 3.30, I was so tired, I admitted defeat, and closed it down. I didn’t know another thing until my alarm went off at 4.45. Time to get up and get into position for sunrise. Yawn.

 With so little sleep, driving home was a very dangerous business. I could feel myself staring into space and losing focus – terrifying danger signals for me. I saw a sign that said “Coffee”, but I didn’t know this place. I was in the middle of nowhere. It couldn’t be good coffee. But then, I reasoned, this is my continued life we are thinking about here, so I did a U-turn and decided to inspect this building. What a find. It’s called Earthwater Cafe, and is 3 kms west of Mole Creek on the road leading to Marakoopa Caves and the Walls (and Lake Rowallan).

The owners only opened in December, yet already the place is very popular, and with good reason. The coffee was excellent, the vanilla slice right up there on a short list of best-ever v. slices, and the garden I sat in to relax and imbibe this much needed food (I have forgotten to mention I was so busy photographing last night I didn’t bother with any dinner) was shady, welcoming, and idyllic. I want to return to re-experience all three (coffee, food, garden), although I might try the prune and apricot tart next go, just to try more things out. The staff couldn’t have been friendlier. I loved it.

Thus fortified, I made it home alive. I was in much greater danger this week from fatigue than I was the week before from fire.

Walls of Jerusalem 2017 Aug Snow

Walls of Jerusalem in Snow. 19 August 2017


We have been to the Walls a few times in winter, in glorious snow, but never have we seen it as tantalisingly lovely as it was this time. We encountered snow well below Trappers Hut (which is normally our snowline), and were in a fairy-wonderland long before we reached that cute little rest point.


If you think that pack of his looks huge and I am a mean wife making him carry so much, please be reassured: my pack was much heavier than his, and I had the shared-type items for the two of us. I have taken huge measures to make myself stronger as he becomes weaker so we can both keep going.
My husband had indicated after last week’s successful foray into white wonder that he felt he was up to a weekend walk to the Walls, so we acted accordingly. However, Parkinson’s is a fickle disease: this week you can be fine (relatively speaking), yet next week, you’ve gone distressingly downhill. This week was not a good week, and he struggled badly. The further we penetrated into the white wilderness, the less coordinated he became. His pace slowed to a virtual halt.



I got very embarrassed, as we were holding the others up dreadfully, so, at lunchtime, I regrettably pulled the pin and took us out, waving wanly as the others headed off to Herods Gates and where I wanted to be.



We began our path downhill, the weather making my decision easier to bear, as the clouds were amassing. My husband’s spirits picked up considerably as we descended, and we had a happy afternoon, figuring we’d managed to be in the beautiful snow for the best part of the day anyway. However, as we walked before lunch, I knew I was looking at my husband climbing in snow with a proper pack on his back for the last time. We have had many sad “last times” since his illness has taken control of him, but this is one of the worst, even though it is not unexpected. At least he can still do daywalks in the snow. For now.

Walls of Jerusalem 2012

 Walls of Jerusalem    10-11 November 2012

 This was a grand trip – one of my favourites ever. The weather was absolutely brilliant, which helped, of course. We camped up high, ate with our legs virtually dangling over the western wall, and had a superlative sunset.
The next day we climbed Mt Moriah, Solomon’s Throne and King David’s Peak with crisp air giving clarity to the scenes. The colours of the sky war part of the huge appeal for me, as my photos show.

 

 

 

Photos below are from day 2 (Sunday).