Liffey River ramble 2018 Dec

Liffey River ramble 2018

My ramble on the Liffey River was part II of one of those days when everything that can go wrong, did. Well, nearly. … Or, more correctly, so it seemed at the time, but now I am back home and can assess a little more rationally, I realise that I and my dog (and family) are still alive; I didn’t fall asleep at the wheel; the head-on collision I nearly had didn’t materialise; I didn’t fall in the river and crash or drown my camera. A lot of worse things could have happened, but the things that did go wrong felt bad at the time.

So, then, exactly what went wrong? The day began well enough. I drove to Bastion Cascades carpark, and from there, in under an hour, bagged the  holy Hidden Falls – all the more wonderful precisely because they are hidden; precisely because there is not a huge ugly highway leading to them, or shockingly tasteless bits of fluorescent tape dangling from every second tree (there was enough of that on the main track to drown the world in plastic). One has to work for Hidden Falls, and the having-to-work component makes them more desirable.

Intersection Pool, Liffey River
The trouble began right here, however. When I went to take my first shot, my camera refused, telling me I had no memory card. I was devastated. I took a stupid Galaxy shot or two, just because I had to do something, but I knew I wouldn’t be sharing such photos. Phone shots are not my thing: I only take them under duress. Like someone who had lost something, I walked the hour back to the car, and drove the further hour home. There was the card beside my computer.

I had only had two hours’ exercise, so had restless legs. I ate, did a few home jobs, and then set out for part two of my day: pools and cascades on the Liffey River in the less-explored regions above the falls. Unfortunately, I didn’t arrive here until 4.30. Off I set, eager to see some more beauty.

The track was great. It got damaged badly in the Big Storm, and has not been repaired, so there are heaps (literally) of obstacles to climb over or crawl under (I crawled on the way out, climbed over or went around on the way back). Many timber mounds were taller than I am (and long, and wide), so they posed quite an interesting challenge. I wormed my way forward. At times you’d be on a track wide enough for a vehicle, and the next thing, you’d be searching for it amongst the ferns, but it was there, and I enjoyed that challenge too. I don’t want elements of my life to be dumbed down so I am a mere puppet. I hate this nanny mentally that is the prevailing mood.

The track became even more beautiful after the river. This track is subtle; it has the usual red and yellow triangles, tastefully placed, not too often, but often enough to let you know you’re still on the track. You have to use a tiny bit of brain power to read the signs of where humans have been, but it is not university mathematics. And meanwhile, you get to be part of nature, as your gaze is not interrupted by pink plastic. It’s a wonderful compromise between aid and destruction, helping people traverse nature whilst leaving it relatively intact. It seems to me that very few of these attractive and tasteful tiny paths remain.

Mouse Pool, Liffey River
Robin, my informant, had said 30 minutes along this track to where it meets the river. I was pleased to be there after all that climbing of obstructions in 24. Now, he said the next bit was also 30. So, I reasoned, I’d start looking after 20, as when I go uphill, I usually take more time off estimates than on the flat. However, after 26 minutes, I had not reached my goal, but was all impatience to photograph, so I decided to call it quits here. Maybe I overshot my goal. If I have made a mistake, I don’t care!! Better to be allowed to make mistakes than to have all originality, all creativity and freedom destroyed by the regimentation of pink tape. I can return and do better next time. Yes. I want the freedom to make errors please. Wilderness and freedom should be bedfellows.

The first two shots here are of this turnaround point, which I have labelled “Intersection Pool”, as a tributary comes in off the left near this point. The second group of three is of a pool 10 minutes’ walk from the meeting of “former road” and river. I called that one Mouse Pool, as it looks like there’s a giant mouse to the right of the cascade, just coming in for a sip of the great drop. My final pool photo I’ve called Introduction Pool, as it was the first one on my way up that I made a mental note to photograph on my way back. Why name them? Just so we can talk to each other about these pools, and to distinguish them one from the other. If Robin tells me he has other names, I’ll change mine to his.

Mouse drinking at her pool, Liffey River
“Excuse me,” you say, “I thought you were in the middle of arguing that everything went wrong” Ah yes, well, here it begins again. This time when I began to photograph, I noticed that my f-stop was stuck on 00. I spent the next 40 minutes trying to coax it to work, and trying to trick it into moving off that distressing number. I pressed every button possible on the outside, and visited every possibility on the menu. Nothing worked. I tried going from manual to bulb to AV, TV … nothing would do it. But then I noticed the camera was also refusing to focus. Ah huh. An electrical problem. Maybe I got it wet in my pack? Maybe the connections aren’t good?? I took the lens off, cleaned the attachments, and put it back on. Presto. Problem solved. Pity about the 40 minutes sitting in the stream as time went rapidly by and it got darker and darker. I then started fainting. I don’t like fainting. I was sweating a fury and very dizzy (I am just out of bed after a week’s flu). I decided an increase in blood sugar would help, even though I also felt like vomiting, so interrupted photography with eating. That cured that problem.

Now, I did notice that it was getting very dark, but thought that was due to a renewed attempt by the clouds to gather for the next bout of rain. It was only after I got into the car and started the engine that I saw the time. It was already 8.30!! When your exposures are between 30 secs and 3 minutes each, and when you take a  lot of shots trying different aspects and frames, it all adds up. Hm. At this rate, I would be lucky to get any dinner.

Introduction Pool, Liffey River
The second last thing that went wrong was that in the dark, and perhaps in my haste, somewhere after Bracknell I became confused on the way home, and now had no visual cues to help me. Suddenly, all the signs said either Hobart or Burnie (or tiny, insignificant places), but nothing anywhere said Launceston. I was not in phone range. I lost a great deal of time wandering in the dark, hoping for signs that I never got, visiting places I didn’t want to see. I finally arrived in Launceston at 9.35. Of course, Harri Curry was closed, and it was my only hope for food that late. I went home, had a few scraps of cauliflower for dinner, and decided breakfast could be a feast. Beauty is more important than food. Despite all my problems – and hopefully I’ve got the whole bang lot of possibilities dispensed with in one single hit – my abiding memory of the afternoon is of a magical section of primitive, relatively untouched forest, a marvellous study in greens and browns. Long may it remain so.

Westmorland Falls 2017, 2018

Westmorland Falls 7 May 2017.
It has been several years since I last visited Westmorland Falls, and I have wanted to return to take better photos. But then we had the big flood and the track was closed. At last this weekend I had my chance to return.


We drove along happily, delighting in the autumn scenery of rural landscape dotted with red and orange and yellow trees, and of the fresh snow on the Western Tiers. It had been nice and warm at home with our fire in the kitchen, so, in the comfort of the car, we did not translate that delectable white into the inevitable chill in the air that wind passing over it can bring. Brrr. We very quickly did our maths when alighting from the car.


Westmorland Falls; picture from Dec 2018 when the flow was better
Luckily, my happy memories of Westmorland extend to glowing images of all the fungi we found on the previous visit. These did not disappoint. The falls, however, were another matter. The devastation of that area is still all too visible, and the falls themselves seemed shockingly barren, stripped of the framing ferns. Fallen trees were all too abundant at the base. But at least they have been opened back up and heaps of repair of repair has been done – even if they have left, seemingly forever, two gigantic, unsightly and utterly unphotogenic bags at the base of the whopping viewing platform that has been built.
Repair was a smart move. We met about ten other people who were there to see the falls, including Japanese tourists. I hope all of them supported the local shops by buying food in Mole Creek or Chudleigh. If you want money from tourists, you have to give them something to do to keep them in your area – and something to spend their money on. By repairing flood damage so that tourists (and Taswegians) can reach attractions like waterfalls, you are hopefully supporting the local businesses.


The sign said two hours return. How do they know how long you want to spend photographing, or whether you want to have lunch there or not? I hope it is more helpful to tell you that I took 26 minutes in each direction, and maybe an hour photographing on top of that. As it was pelting with rain, I ate in the car after I’d finished. In 2017, I took nearly three hours, spending all the extra time lying in mud trying to fit under delicate mycena. Luckily the leeches weren’t out, or I would have been covered in them. (2018, Dec, they made up for it. I flicked off leeches the whole trip home. It made driving a challenge).
In 2018, I chose these falls on a day when it was due to rain all day. They were perfect for that, involving not too long a walk, and on a track that doesn’t have too many overhanging shrubs to drench you as you go past.


To reach the falls, head south from Mole Creek along Caveside Road for 5.9 kms. Turn right at a road signed Wet Cave Road, which the lady on google maps will tell you incorrectly is West Caveside Road. At the T-intersection of this point, there is your first sign to the falls you are wanting (spelled incorrectly). From here on, every turn has a sign. The sign that says you’ve arrived is spelled as per the map. (2018, I came straight in from Chudleigh instead of going via Mole Creek. Bad idea. The signs to Caveside dump you, abandoning you in the middle of beautiful countryside. It’s much clearer if you come via the Mole.)


As hinted above, there seems to be a great deal of confusion about the spelling of these waterfalls. I am using the spelling that is on both the 1:100,000 and the 1:25,000 maps. They get the call. Surely they are careful enough to spell the beastie properly. Not so the Meander council, which has some road signs directing you with the spelling having and e (as in Westmoreland Falls) and some without, as I have used consistently here, in line with the maps. I note that Waterfalls of Tasmania uses the other spelling. Google is rightly confused, and lumps all references in together – very wise. Official government map departments use the correct Westmorland spelling, but I note that the Touring Tasmania site uses the incorrect spelling. Mole Creek information uses it correctly. Whatever spelling you use, Google maps will tell you it doesn’t exist, and will try to direct you to some place in America, no doubt selling stuff that will last a short time. The falls are not what they used to be, but they are still worth seeing, and the fungi on the way are terrific.


Westmorland Falls Fairy Forest.
Route data: 1.75 kms in each direction, with over a hundred metres climb (and some climb on the return journey as well):

Cradle Mountain 2017 autumn

Quamby Bluff in the early light. I so love a dawn start to my jaunts. 
Whilst everyone else seemed to be dashing to Cradle Mountain for the fagus season, my interest lay in the fungi that usually appear at this time of the year, and in the waterfalls that should be flowing after our recent rains. I was impatient to get there and see what I could see.


I had a wonderful day – by myself, so I had head space, and yet not by any means alone, as everywhere I went I met new lovely people who wanted to chat to me, so had a delightfully companionable day as well. It was a perfect mix of solitude and sociability. Many, many of these people helped me in one way or another: one cleaned my car camera (for reversing) for me, one helped me adjust the stiff legs of my new tripod and taught me how to use it as a monopod as well. When I lost my black gloves at late dusk, people assisted in trying to locate them for me. On every trail I walked, I met people who wanted to discuss ‘fungi success’ on other trails, or camera gear, or to relate stories to me of this or that walk they’d done elsewhere. The mountains were full of nature addicts. It was so lovely to be helped rather than be the eternal helper, which my role as carer of my ill husband dictates. With every breath the air felt so fresh and clean: two lungfuls for the price of one, it seemed.
What follows is more of a photo essay than a verbal one. It is the story of my love of light, of nature, and of this beautiful, peaceful spot that I am privileged to call home.


Russula persanguinea 


And now we come to sunset. My battery is running dangerously low. I get into place, reckoning I’ll shoot until it runs out and then head for home. Shortly afterwards, a seeming crowd of photographers appeared. It got quite crowded, with tripod legs being intertwined with mine (but not spoiling my image). I was sure glad I’d arrived early.


I would have loved to stay at the party and shoot the stars. It would have been a freezing party, but jovial, I’m sure. Maybe next time I’ll be a little more careful when I pack my bag!!!

Orites Falls 2016

Orites Falls 2016.
The real story of Orites Falls is actually the story of the Cheyne Range, which can be found scrolling down to C on the right here, by an internal search or clicking:
http://www.natureloverswalks.com/cheyne-range/


I have done a separate heading for those who are solely interested in waterfalls, and in seeing a very unusual one. However, if you are not interested in “real” bushwalking with a pack on your back and an overnight stay in your tent, then this one is only for window shopping. You also need to be able to navigate to get to these falls, as tracks will only help you for about the first hour. The going is rough and tough, but the rewards are great. I was upset that I couldn’t bring my tripod on this trip, but I found an obliging rock that allowed me to use it for exposures of a couple of seconds.


Our route is in the Cheyne Range entry. I haven’t repeated it here in order to emphasise that this waterfall is only for very experienced members of  bushwalking circles.

Guide Falls 2015 Dec

The Guide Falls are only a short distance from Burnie. Head south on the B18 towards Ridgley, after which you’ll see a clear sign pointing you in the right direction (initially, on the C104). These Falls were delightful, although I hated seeing the old-fashioned wire and steel railing to keep me from falling off the edge.

Guide Falls, near Burnie